12-17 April 2022 Ieper, Fintele, Veurne BE, Dunkirk, Clairmarais, St Omer, Arques FR Well we were finally able to leave Ieper and head into France. After a few dramas on our first day we have made good progress, although we are having an enforced day off cruising today (easter Sunday) as the locks here are closed. Moondance at our first stop - Fintele On Tuesday evening we were pleased that all the jobs were complete, and we went into town for our last dinner in Ieper. The next morning, after Howard made a quick dash to the fishing tackle shop, we were ready to go. We were feeling confident but after just 100m our engine cut out. I tried to restart it but every time I put it into gear it cut out again. We were able to moor safely against the wall of the canal and David from Pieter came over to help. He and Howard worked out that there was something wrapped around the prop. They lowered a ladder and tied it on and Howard went down to investigate. Sure enough there was a piece of artificial grass wrapped around the propeller. We think it was in the canal since the big storm. Unfortunately, Howard was only able to cut off a small piece and the water was too cold and dirty to do much more. So we called up "Dirk the Diver" who had helped us out once before. Lucky for us he was able to stop off in Ieper on his way to Oostend from France and sorted it out for us. So we were able to get away at about 12:30. Our first stop was Fintele which is a delightful little rural hamlet. Howard had a fish in the evening and I took a few photos. Howard has always enjoyed fishing at Fintele so we had a late start to the cruising on Thursday morning so that he could fish. We were pleased that we hadn't forgotten how to drive the boat, and apart from getting used to the new PC-Navigo (our navigation software), we felt in control of the boat. In Veurne we did a bit of shopping, including cycling out to the new Albert Heijn supermarket. Unfortunately the route that Google Maps chose was closed so we had to make a detour. We also had a little ride around the town. In the evening, Davy and his wife and daughter came by the boat. Davy dropped off our new generator battery and replacement cartridges for the new water filter. It was nice to have a relaxed chat without having him fix anything. The next morning, Friday, we were off to Dunkirk. We had called to the VNF (France inland waterways organisation) the day before to arrange for the bridges on the Furnes canal to be opened for us. We were pleased that the VNF guy was there when we arrived. He boarded Moondance to check our vignette before opening the bridge and then following us to the next bridge. Then we were off again. Our next challenge was the Furnes Lock, which is the most dilapidated lock we have come across yet. We had been through it once before and had to call for help. We haven't heard of anyone getting through without having to call. When we arrived the lights went green and red (meaning the lock is being prepared for you), but the gate was open so we entered the lock. Inside the lock is a remote with buttons to press depending on your direction. We pressed for Dunkirk, but nothing happened. We called the VNF who informed us that we had to call the Port of Dunkirk and gave us the phone number. Then we called them and they said they will call a technician, but will probably be about 20 minutes. So we tied off and set out to wait, expecting someone to arrive to sort it out. After only about 5 minutes Howard noticed that the lock doors had closed. No warning or bell. We rushed out to untie the ropes but were too late at the back which was already hung and we had to cut the rope. How frustrating. Still we were then on our way again. The final lock for the day was Jeu de Mail which has been converted to an automatic lock since we were last there. We had to go under a pole and push it up. But when there was no change to the lights, we reversed in to do it again. Howard notice that there was a boat in the lock, so we waited and entered after they left without further problems and moored just at the other side of the lock. After at late lunch we spent our time on board or nearby getting jobs done. Good Friday is not a holiday in France, which we found a little odd given how important the holiday it is in Australia. Saturday we set off early for the big trip to Arques. Due to our late start to cruising we have cut down on our stops, especially at places that we have visited before. We want to get to Cappy on the Somme so that we can leave the boat in the Marina there when we head back to the Netherlands next week. We have also decided to go to the Barge Association (DBA) Rally the following week and have managed to get a lift from friends as well as a bed on one of the boats that is attending. We had only one lock for the whole trip on Saturday, and it was a wide canal with little traffic so a fairly easy, although long, day. We ended up mooring on the side of the canal in Clairmarais, just before Arques and were very happy with the location. In the afternoon Howard did some work on the boat and I went for a ride (after booking our trip to the Netherlands next week). Clairmarais is reclaimed marshland and there are many little canals which drain the marshes. There are lots of market gardens, and it is a popular place for boating and fishing. I found a tulip garden in town where you pick your own tulips and pay for them in an honesty box - 50c for 1 and 10 euros for 22. In the town is a former monastery now in ruins, but it's farm is now a function centre and there was a reception for a wedding there. In the evening we checked our route and decided to start a little later as our PC-Navigo said that the locks didn't open until 9am on Sundays and public holidays. But we got up early anyway as it was a lovely misty morning. However when we arrived at the lock (after ony 2.1 km) at about 9:20 they didn't respond to our VHF call or phone call. And the boat which had passed us the previous evening was still moored there. We tried calling the following lock but got no response there either. We took the bikes off and went for a cycle, finding both locks deserted. The second lock is 13.5 m deep, and it is near to the former ascenceur which is being restored. So then we decided to follow the old canal, which would take us into nearby St Omer, where we bought fresh bread and pastries (we chose the only boulangerie without a queue). When we returned to the boat we could see our neighbours on "Las Vegas" so we had a chat with them (in French of course). They are sure that, even though tomorrow is also a public holiday, the lock will be working as usual.
So after lunch we started work on the boat. We managed to complete a coat of primer on the roof, and Howard started bogging the seams in the back deck.
5 Comments
Pam Kershaw
17/4/2022 11:13:58 pm
And I thought you’d just be cruising down those canals and rivers! All those locks! Great commentary Deb. Back here in Melbourne our Monday ride probably won’t go ahead because of the first rain for weeks! Pam
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Cheryl Poustie
17/4/2022 11:16:38 pm
As always, Deb, your photos are exquisite.
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Margaret Keir
18/4/2022 08:34:31 am
We are loving your photographs, Deb, and hearing your news. How is your foot problem?
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Trudi Potter
18/4/2022 12:56:09 pm
Glad you are on the move. Beautiful photos. Spring is a gorgeous I am enjoying you blog very much.
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Richard Switzky
18/4/2022 01:03:08 pm
Your narrative and photos are brilliant. I really love traveling along with you and Howard on your adventures. I particularly enjoy your positivity and ability to overcome one problem after another. I hope you continue to enjoy your travels. How is your foot coming along?
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